Rated this place:
317 Dundas St. W., Toronto, ON, M5T 1G4
AGO’s Frank is frankly confusing: By Julie Reitsma
We love us some AGO (the gift shop alone!), but we haven’t always loved the cuisine à la cafeteria that was on offer when we wanted a mid-gallery snack. So, when we heard that FRANK was going to be popping up behind the scaffolding, we rubbed our hands together, rinsed off our paint brushes, and adjusted our beret in anticipation. Our faux-fur safely tucked in coat check, we took a few to gander at our surroundings. The space, eponymously designed by Frank Gehry, and in further Frank-ful fashion includes installations by Frank Stella, is high ceilinged and airy. While some elements tickled our fancy—the massive back-lit wall o’ wine, top-notch leather swivel chairs (sparking wishful swoons that we had them for home-dinage)—we found the space to not quite work. We’re fans of Scando-design (our apartment reeks of IKEA on the best of days), but something about that much birch veneer and overly spaced out tables wasn’t exactly synonymous with cozy.FRANK, of course, isn’t all about the design—though the head chef, Anne Yarymowich, in rather comme il faut fashion, has a degree in fine arts. The marriage of food and art is central here, and the menu reflects this with a rather over-the-top habit for naming dishes in as ‘artful’ a manner as possible. Two examples of this ‘creativity’ were sampled as starters—the Still Life with Pear, Pancetta and Fig (gorgeously presented, the pear vessel was cooked with all possible pear-mealiness avoided. The layered elements worked seamlessly, so that each forkful presented an opportunity to enjoy the subtle blue cheese, sweet fig, and finally the salty crisp of pancetta) ($14), and the Composition in Red, Yellow and Green (a salad that was visually reminiscent of a banana split, the arugula and beets were so fresh it could have been mid-summer. Topped off with a fragrant and tart, but not fish-faced, dressing, this was a stand-out) ($12). We rounded off our first course with the Roasted Sunchoke Soup ($8), which, despite an overall smooth velvety flavour, punctuated by the crunch of sunflower seeds, lacked in herbs where it lacked in name. An all Ontario wine list complements the locally-focussed menu, and is in itself an entertaining read—a Cave Springs Riesling apparently has a “starched shirt feeling” (with a hint of bleach?), and a Creekside sauvignon blanc was billed as “hi styling” (served in a stiletto?).Main-wise, you will find FRANK’s offerings to lean towards the gamey. The Braised Ontario Rabbit was unbelievable tender, served in a smacktastic mustard sauce ($25) that was well-suited to the accompanying absorbent polenta cakelette. Unfortunately this dish was marred by an inexplicable fatty skin-roll of bunny pieces that we couldn’t help but dub the “too bad roulade.” The polenta disk made a welcome encore alongside the crispy-skinned and lemony accented Roasted Organically Farmed Cod ($24)