...Vdara hits in a spot used to misses
Rated this place:
...With all infractions repaired, chef Mani Binelli now has a nice warm place to feature a globe-trotting mix of “Upper Bohemian” gastronomic genres, from Indian and Italian to French and down-home southern grub. The former Oliver & Bonacini Group chef’s carte is an eclectic masterwork in refined comfort fare.
To start, when have you ever seen vodka and soy marinated beef carpaccio ($11.95) on a menu? Rather than being an ill-conceived fusion disaster, it’s an exceptional reimagining of this Venetian classic, with tender slices of meat draped atop a hillock of zesty arugula and warm chunks of yummy yam. Somewhere between a traditional dumpling and a calzone, you’ll find Binneli’s Khachapuri and Zatar ($6.95), a buttery, crisp crust oozing with scallion-laced, four-cheese artery-clogging gooeyness...See Full Post
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